One good trick I can share with you is to give your Christmas cactus a little pre-season TLC—with some well-timed pruning. This will help it look its best and burst into bloom over the holidays. Not only will it help shape the plant, but it also encourages more flower buds. Think of it as a haircut to freshen up the plant, you’re not hurting it. And, of course, pruning is a personal choice—not everyone does it.
If you want to try it, here’s the catch: don’t prune right before the holidays. That’s when your Christmas cactus starts to bloom, so cutting it now might mean cutting off future flowers. The best time to prune is after it has finished blooming, usually mid-January to early February, depending on where you live. If you do this then, after the last flowers have fallen off, you give the plant plenty of time to bounce back and grow fresh segments before its next flower show.
When it comes to tools, you don’t need anything fancy. Pruning scissors are good, but if you don’t have them, a clean pair of normal scissors works great—or just use your fingers to twist off segments. It’s that simple. Just make sure to cut or break at the joint where two segments meet—that’s where new branches will sprout. Remove one or two segments per stem, especially on any long, awkward-looking ones.
If you end up with any longer cuttings, don’t throw them away! They’re perfect for propagating (I’ll get to that in another section). For now, once you’re done trimming, let the plant relax—cut back on watering, skip the fertilizer, and keep it somewhere cool for a few weeks.
It might feel a bit nerve-wracking the first time you prune, but don’t worry—your cacti will look fuller, tidier, and healthier in no time.
How to Prune a Thanksgiving Cactus
Got a Thanksgiving cactus instead? The good news is, pruning it is nearly the same as with the Christmas variety—the main difference is when you do it.
Since Thanksgiving cacti bloom earlier (usually November), you want to avoid pruning too close to fall. The best time for this is late winter, but it can stretch to early spring, after it’s finished blooming and before new growth is getting started.
Take a good look at your plant’s shape. Is it a bit wild or lopsided? Are some stems getting a little too long? That’s your cue. Use sterilized scissors (or your fingers again) to gently remove one or two segments at a time, always breaking at the joint. That’s where your cactus naturally wants to grow new branches.
Don’t feel like you have to do an extreme makeover. Light pruning is enough to encourage bushier, more balanced growth. And if you’ve got one side that’s leaning or looking heavier than the other, trim that side a little more to even things out.
Just like with the Christmas cactus, your Thanksgiving cactus will put its energy into making new branches once it’s pruned. And more branches mean more tips—aka more spots for buds to form in next fall.
Once you’re finished, give your cactus a short rest period. Less water, no food, and a bit of cooler air will help it reset. Oh, and keep any longer cuttings! They’re perfect for growing new plants, and let’s be honest… one holiday cactus is never enough. 😉
How to Root Christmas Cactus Cuttings
I have a bunch of cuttings I got from a friend waiting to be rooted in the bathroom, and another bunch rooting in the living room. Do you have any cuttings? Let’s turn them into brand-new plants! Rooting holiday cactus cuttings is incredibly easy, and it feels rewarding to grow a fresh cactus from scratch.
Here’s what you need: a few healthy stem segments; min. 2–3 joined pads (sections) is ideal.
Before you start the rooting process, let the cuttings dry out for a day or two. This helps prevent rot. You’ll notice the end forms a tiny callus—that’s your sign it’s ready to root.
Method 1: Rooting in Soil.
You need a shallow container, and a well-draining potting mix. (Read about different potting mediums HERE)
Stick the dried end about an inch into damp soil. Keep it lightly moist but not soggy, and place the pot somewhere bright but out of direct sun. Within the next few weeks (sometimes sooner), new growth starts to form.
Tip: When the cutting resists a gentle tug, it’s rooted. Once the plant is established, you can water it more normally and start treating it like a grown-up cactus.
Method 2: Rooting in Water.
You can also root cuttings in water, and later plant them in potting mix once their roots have grown long enough. All you need is a glass container of some kind. (The opening must be wide enough to allow enough airflow in)
Put the cuttings to stand in the container—make sure all the ends touch the bottom, and give them just enough water to stand in it. Add more water as necessary (it evaporates).
You’ll see thin white roots forming soon! Once they’re long enough, you can plant them in small pots in soil. (Read about different potting mediums HERE)
Rooting cuttings is a great way to multiply your collection or make gifts for friends. Plus, it’s a backup plan in case your main plant ever has a bad year.
Christmas Cactus: When to Fertilize
People’s “feeding habits” with their plants vary drastically—some people don’t fertilize at all, while others do it frequently. And there are those, like myself, who fall somewhere in the middle of the feeding spectrum.
Fertilizing has several benefits; it can help your plant grow bigger and produce better blooms. It can also help maintain the plant’s overall health. In nature, there would be all kinds of natural fertilizers, such as animal droppings and decaying natural materials. It’s all food for the plants!
It’s beneficial to offer this nutrient boost to your Schlumbergera in indoor conditions. Timing is everything, though! Fertilizing at the wrong time can mess with the blooming cycle, so let’s time it right.
The best time to fertilize is from late spring through early fall. This is when the plant is in active growth mode, putting out new segments and prepping for the big show (flowers!) later in the year. You should stop feeding before buds start forming in late fall. It is important not to feed it while it is trying to bloom, because it can shift the plant’s focus to growing instead of blooming.
Use a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer (something like 10-10-10 or 20-20-20) once a month. I’d recommend you to go with half-strength or even just a quarter of the recommended dosage, because overfeeding can easily happen. Just remember not to fertilize in winter when the plant is resting.
When the blooming has finished, give your cactus a break—skip feeding for a few months and let it relax. Then resume in spring when the weather starts picking up, and it’s time to start growing new segments.
Keeping a simple seasonal schedule—feed spring to fall, rest in winter—will keep your Christmas cactus healthy, strong, and ready to delight you with flowers year after year.
Thanksgiving Cactus: When to Fertilize
Your Thanksgiving cactus benefits from almost the same seasonal feeding rhythm as the Christmas variety. Start fertilizing in late spring, once you see new segments forming, and continue fertilizing monthly until late summer to early September. (You must finish fertilizing earlier than you would the Christmas cactus, because Thanksgiving cactus blooms already around November)
Feeding fuels healthy growth and sets the stage for more impressive blooms. Use a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10, or switch to a bloom booster (like 10-30-20) in late summer. Just be sure to stop fertilizing before buds appear so you don’t interrupt the blooming cycle. Keep it light, and keep it consistent—your Thanksgiving cactus will thank you for it!
Best Fertilizer for Christmas Cactus
Let’s talk about what type of fertilizer to look out for. It doesn’t have to be complicated to choose the right one for your Christmas and/or Thanksgiving cactus. There are a few options that work better than others depending on your goals—whether it’s healthy foliage, lavish blooms, or strong roots.
For everyday care, a balanced water-soluble fertilizer like 20-20-20 is a great choice. It supports overall growth and is easy to find. Use it monthly during the active growing season (spring through early fall). You’re safe with fertilizer targeted for orchids (they’re epiphytes just like holiday cacti) or general indoor plant fertilizer.
If you’re specifically aiming for more flowers, switch to a bloom-boosting formula in late summer—look for something like 10-30-20 or even 0-15-30. The high phosphorus helps trigger more buds. Use this about once a month leading up to fall, then stop once the buds start to develop. You should be able to find a bloom-specific fertilizer pretty easily—otherwise, African Violet fertilizer is fine too.
The only ready fertilizers I would advise avoiding for the holiday cacti are cactus- and rose-specific fertilizers.
If you prefer organic, there are options in the market, like liquid seaweed, fish emulsion, or even a weak compost tea. They’re gentle, natural, and good for long-term plant health. Just be aware they may not trigger quite as many flowers as synthetic options.
One more tip: whatever you choose, dilute it more than the label says. These plants don’t like heavy feeding. Half-strength is usually plenty, or even just a quarter! Better safe than sorry.
So what’s the “best” fertilizer depends on what you’re after. Want blooms? Go high-phosphorus before fall. Want a happy, steady plant year-round? Stick with balanced feed and go light.
FINAL WORDS
I hope your questions about fertilizing, pruning, and rooting your holiday cacti got answered in this post. If not, please feel free to ask in the comment section below. I’d love to hear from you! I’m also curious, what fertilizers have you used and would recommend?
Thanks for reading! Until next time, stay safe out there… 💚
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