I’ve kept Schlumbergeras for years. In fact, I got my first one in my teens in the 90s. Over the years, I’ve encountered several Christmas cacti (as well as Thanksgiving and Easter cacti) that simply seemed to be stuck at the same size year after year. At the time, I didn’t really understand why they weren’t growing—it was like they were dormant, and nothing was happening.
Holiday cacti can be a bit finicky when it comes to growth. Unlike fast-growing houseplants like my beloved umbrella trees, Christmas cacti have specific needs, and even one small issue can hold them back. If you’re caring for yours with love but still seeing zero growth, let’s look into what could be going on.
First off, growth spurts for Christmas cactus usually happen in spring and summer. This is their growing season. So if you’re checking for new growth during winter, it’s normal to see little to no action. But if your plant hasn’t budged in a year or more, there are things you need to consider.
The three biggest reasons your Christmas cactus isn’t getting bigger are:
- Not enough light—These plants don’t want direct sun, but they still need a decent amount of bright, indirect light to grow new segments.
- Wrong pot or poor soil—If it’s rootbound or sitting in soggy, compact soil, it won’t focus energy on growth.
- Nutrient issues—If you’re not feeding it, or if it’s stuck in old soil, it’s likely missing the nutrients it needs to bulk up.
In the sections below, I’ll walk you through how to fix each of these step-by-step, plus give you some visual clues and signs to help you spot pests or disease issues that could be slowing your plant down.
Christmas Cactus Care and Maintenance
Let’s get your Christmas cactus back on track. If you get the basic care right, it should perk up and start growing again. A few consistent habits make a big difference over time. I’ll try to keep it short and simple.
Light: Put your cactus near a bright window, but not one with harsh direct sun all day. Morning light is perfect. If it’s too dark, your plant won’t have the energy to grow. If it’s too bright, the leaf segments may turn red or pale and get stressed out.
Watering: Overwatering is probably the #1 mistake. Your cactus needs water when the top inch of soil is dry—no sooner. Stick your finger in the soil to check. During spring and summer (growth season), water a bit more often. In winter, back off. (Always check it with your finger first!)
Soil & Pot: These plants want a loose, well-draining mix. If it’s in the wrong kind of soil (like regular potting soil that holds water too long), repot it in an orchid mix, or make your own. Check the pot—if roots are circling the bottom or sticking out the drainage holes, it’s time to upsize.
Feeding: Use a diluted houseplant fertilizer or cactus food every few weeks during spring and summer. ( ½ or ¼ of the recommended dosage is enough) Skip fertilizing in fall and winter when the plant is resting.
Pruning: You can encourage bushier growth by gently twisting or cutting off a few segments in late spring. This tells the plant to produce more branches.
All of these steps lead to a happier cactus. If you make sure you’re doing all these things right, then I don’t see any reason why your cactus shouldn’t start growing again. However, if you make these changes and still don’t see growth in 6-8 weeks, it’s time to look at other issues—like pests or disease.
Common Pests for Christmas Cactus
Your cactus might look okay at a glance, but if you’re not seeing growth, pests could be the quiet culprits. Christmas cacti don’t get pests as often as some houseplants like Phalaenopsis orchids, but when they do, it really slows them down.
With my orchids, I didn’t realize anything was wrong until some of them started dropping leaves. You really don’t want an infestation to get that far. Stalled growth might be an early sign that something’s lurking in your plants—or it may not be—but it’s worth considering, even if only to rule it out.
Here are the most common ones to check for:
Mealybugs: These guys look like tiny bits of cotton stuck in the joints or undersides of the leaf segments. They suck out the plant’s nutrients and leave behind sticky stuff (called honeydew) that can cause mold. If you see cottony fluff, that’s them.
Spider mites: If your cactus looks dusty or has faint webbing between segments, you might have spider mites. These guys are tiny, so the damage shows up before you see the mites—think speckled, faded, curling leaves, or rusty-colored matter on the leaves.
Fungus gnats: These don’t harm the cactus directly, but their larvae feed on roots, especially in wet soil. If you see little black flies (like banana flies) hovering around the pot when you water, check the soil.
Scale insects: These look like small brown or tan bumps stuck on the plant. They cling on and suck sap, which can stunt growth and eventually kill off sections.
For all of these, the fix is similar: isolate your plant, wipe down the segments with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, and repot if the infestation is bad. For mites and gnats, you can also use neem oil spray or insecticidal soap.
Regular inspection—like every couple of weeks—can catch these issues early before they turn into a major growth block.
We’ll dive deeper into different pest control and treatment methods in another post. But first things first: take a close look at your plant for anything unusual. A magnifying glass can be super helpful when checking for pests. If you spot something, we can figure out what it is and go from there.
Christmas Cactus Diseases
Diseases are another thing that can quietly stop your Christmas cactus from growing—or worse, slowly kill it—without giving you big, obvious signs at first. But once you know what signs to look for, it’s much easier to detect problems early and save your plant.
Let’s go through the most common diseases that affect the Schlumbergera cactus and how to deal with them. (These apply to all the holiday cacti; Christmas & Thanksgiving (aka November), and Easter)
Root rot is probably the biggest killer, and it usually starts with overwatering. Your plant might look droopy, pale, or even slightly translucent. You might assume it’s thirsty and water it more—but without checking the soil first, for all you know, it might still be wet from the previous watering. The roots drown and rot away when they never get a chance to dry. If you pull the plant out and the roots are black, mushy, or smell slightly off, that’s your diagnosis. Try to trim off all bad roots, allow the root system to air-dry for a day or two, and repot in dry, well-draining soil.
Stem rot is just as nasty. It often starts from a wound—like a damaged segment or water that’s been sitting at the base for too long. You’ll notice brown, mushy, or collapsing areas, typically beginning at the joints. Once it sets in, you’ve got to quickly remove that part to stop it from spreading.
The tricky thing with stem rot is that it affects the “heart” of the plant—the part sticking out of the soil that everything else grows from. And if that goes, there’s really no saving the plant. (Except by taking cuttings and rooting them) That’s why it’s so important to catch stem rot early, while you still have a chance of fighting it. Make sure the soil around the base dries out well, and you can spray the affected area with 3% hydrogen peroxide.
Fungal leaf spots can look like dark, sunken patches or raised lesions on the leaf segments. They tend to pop up if your cactus is in a super humid or poorly ventilated spot. Fungal infections thrive where moisture hangs around too long.
Snip off any spotted leaves, make sure your plant has good airflow, and avoid getting water on the leaves. If it keeps coming back, you can try a gentle fungicide made for houseplants. And make sure that the soil isn’t staying soggy.
Botrytis (gray mold) is a fuzzy, dusty-looking mold that can spread like wildfire in damp conditions. If you see it, isolate the plant immediately, remove affected parts, and treat with a fungicide.
The golden rule? Don’t overwater; make sure your soil drains well; don’t let the pot sit in water for too long; and always take out any damaged or mushy parts. These small habits go a long way in keeping disease from turning into a big problem.
What Eats Christmas Cactus
The Schlumbergera cactus is just like any other green plant—making it a tasty snack for some sneaky culprits. I’ve personally dealt with this a few times because my holiday cacti are indoors and I have pet birds! Bad combo. My older birds left my plants alone, but my current ones sneak in for a snack whenever they get the chance. They get plenty of fresh veggies and fruit daily, but apparently, there’s something extra delicious about holiday cacti! It’s pretty annoying, to say the least. But hey, at least Schlumbergera isn’t toxic, so there’s that.
I didn’t need to do any detective work to figure out who the plant-munching suspects were with my plants, but I know it’s not always that obvious—especially if all you have to go with are some bite marks!
So, let’s go over some potential suspects and see who might be responsible for eating your plant…
INDOOR CULPRITS
Slugs and snails: Yes, even indoors, these slimy creatures can sneak in and feast on your cactus if they hitch a ride on soil or pots. You’ll see ragged, irregular bite marks and sometimes a silvery slime trail.
Rodents (mice or rats): These guys may nibble on the leaf segments for moisture, especially in winter or in dry areas. You might see clean bite marks, droppings, or even chewed pots.
Cats: Curious cats might paw, bat, or chew on the segments—not because they’re hungry, but because they’re bored or curious. It’s not toxic, but repeated damage can stress your plant.
Birds: Pet birds need fresh greens in their diet, which makes the Christmas cactus a tasty snack for them. These ‘bite’ marks are usually the easiest to identify because of the shape of the beak, leaving a triangle-shaped mark.
Insects: Occasionally, indoor beetles or caterpillars can get in through open windows or soil and start chewing.
OUTDOOR NIBBLERS
If you keep your Christmas cactus outside during the warmer months, the menu of hungry visitors expands:
Deer: They’ll eat just about anything if they’re hungry enough. If you’re in a deer-prone area and notice large, clean bites or whole missing segments, deer might be the issue.
Rabbits: These little guys can gnaw low pads right off the plant. Look for clean-cut bites and droppings nearby.
Ground squirrels or chipmunks: They’re cheeky and will dig or nibble at the base. You might notice disturbed soil along with missing pieces.
Birds: Some birds peck at cactus pads for moisture or curiosity, especially in dry climates.
Tortoises and reptiles: In desert or rural settings, larger herbivores like tortoises may snack on cacti in general, including Christmas cactus.
HOW TO PROTECT YOUR PLANT
For indoor plants, try placing them out of reach. Or use deterrents like citrus spray (for cats). I sometimes attach a few balloons to my cactus shelf when I can’t supervise all the time—birds don’t like balloons! Nets and fabrics can also work, though practice safety (you don’t want your pet getting tangled in anything). That said, with pets, supervision is key. You can also teach them “no” when they get too close to your plants—they do learn, even if they don’t always obey.
It’s a different ballgame with wild animals (mice, slugs, insects, etc), but the process is the same: be observant and take the necessary steps to protect your plants.
For outdoor plants, you can use fencing, netting, or raised pots to keep wildlife at bay. Another option is bringing the plants inside at night, when most of the larger critters are out and about.
The above list should give you a good sense of who might be snacking on your cactus—who’s the suspect?
FINAL WORDS
I hope this post has helped you understand why your holiday cactus might not be growing. As you’ve gathered by now, there are several possible reasons. Thankfully, you should be able to get to the bottom of it, if you just check all these factors we discussed. I truly believe you’ll get it under control, and before long, your cactus will be growing again.
Thank you so much for reading. If you have any experiences to share with me or the other readers, please feel free to leave a comment below—I’d love to hear from you.
Until next time, stay safe and happy growing! 💚
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